H&M, Kate Sylvester remove sustainability claims after Consumer NZ investigation
Tuesday, 21 December 2021
Christmas shoppers are being urged to be wary of clothing brands which claim their garments have sustainability certifications.
A Consumer NZ investigation into sustainable fashion claims resulted in four brands – H&M, Kate Sylvester Maggie Marilyn, and Ruby – removing their claims after they were unable to back them up.
Another four brands were also identified as not following labelling rules.
Consumer NZ head of communications and campaigns Gemma Rasmussen said to make certification claims, the fabric itself must be certified, and the garment must also be manufactured in a certified factory.
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Retailers must also display licence numbers to help consumers know they were getting the genuine article.
“Retailers have a responsibility to ensure their sustainability claims stack up. If they fail to do so, they risk misleading consumers,” Rasmussen said.
Maggie Marilyn and Ruby advertised clothing made from fabric certified by the Global Recycled Standard (GRS). This certification means the garment contains at least 50 per cent recycled content and has been sourced from an accredited supplier and manufactured in a certified factory.
After asking each to back up their certification claims, Consumer NZ discovered the garments hadn't been made in a certified factory.
Glassons and Juliette Hogan also advertised clothing made from “GRS certified” fabrics but didn’t include a licence number. Juliette Hogan removed its claims after Consumer NZ enquiries.
Glassons also advertised products made from materials certified by the Organic Content Standard (OCS) and the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). However, clothing labels didn’t show a licence number.
Both standards have two certification schemes that identify a minimum percentage of organic fibre content. Retailers making any certification claims under any of these schemes must also display licence numbers that allow a customer to check whether the product is verified on a database.
Glassons chief executive officer Stuart Duncan said the labelling of goods was “very complex', and 'the consumer should not be misled.” Glassons was in the process of amending the labels, he said.
Retail giant H&M said on its website that almost all its “newborn garments are 100 per cent organic” and are OCS or GOTS certified.
When asked by Consumer NZ to provide licence numbers and transaction certificates, H&M refused. It subsequently removed its GOTS certification claims.
The website of fashion brand Karen Walker stated 49 per cent of the retailer’s clothing line was made from GOTS-certified cotton. However, a spokesperson said it didn't have approval to make the certification claims and subsequently removed them.
Kate Sylvester also marketed several T-shirts as “100 per cent organic cotton GOTS certified”.
One of the T-shirts advertised was made in collaboration with Mindful Fashion New Zealand. While the fibre and yarn were purchased from GOTS suppliers, it was ribbed, cut and manufactured in facilities that did not have accreditation.
The remainder of the shirts had been purchased as blank finished products from a GOTS supplier, but had designs printed on to them in a non-accredited facility. The brand subsequently removed its claims.
Consumer NZ’s tips for spotting sustainable fashion items:
The best way to protect yourself against “green” marketing hype is to look for precise claims and evidence backing them up.
Look for details like a certification licence number. If it has one, you can use it to check the relevant scheme’s database.
If you think a company’s sustainable clothing claim is misleading, report it to the Commerce Commission.